Old & New Carantania
The Historical Region of Alpe-Adria today

„The Golden Ladder is an invisible thread connecting the earth and the sky. It can only be seen by chosen ones. Only they can listen whispering the stars, heavenly music, and can be in harmony with the universe. The poet senses and feels them. They are somewhere out there.”
Alojz Gradnik

Introduction

This report is just a small abstract of my story „A green alien in the kingdom of Carantania“ ([url=]Ein grüner Alien im Königreich Karantanien[/url]. As in some cases the years before, I created a fictional story, covering my big cycle tour of the year. As the years before, I’m not able to translate this whole story. If you’ve any possibility, to follow the German version, do better so. Of course the language is sometimes difficult, because I created some new words, supporting the idea of an alien from the universe, living in a space shuttle called “Green Devil”. The story in short, is an alien, who makes an exploring journey to earth, to Carantania in detail. The trip is commissioned by his commander, called speichen-08/15-kracher, which links in German some association to somebody, who is not always the lucky one, and maybe not a precise working man, maybe not very intellectual. So his alien “studi-RAL-verde” (meaning the green colour), someway a counterpart of pedantic character, should find out historical backgrounds on earth for an old kingdom – of course with scientific perfection. As well, studi-RAL-verde has always to fight with the budget limitation, which is ordered by his commander. As turns out, there are some crucial evidences, that the inhabitants of the Green Devil have some Carantanian heritage. Some feature in this plot is the myth of frogs. As well, Green Devil is part of a galaxy, called “Galaxy of the 7000 Green Frog Holes”.

This is one of a lot of elements, which gives some ridiculous and even satirical reflections on the science report, which underlines some main structures of the historical Alpe Adria region. As well, gold is always representing different symbolic meanings in the story – for footprints of the kingdom, for a Carantanian spirit, for poetic vibrations, for the connection between earth and universe, even to the Green Devil – and even more. In this context the history goes back to Carantania, a Slavonian principality, much more than 1000 years ago. This region has been conquered by Bavarians (not only), and Christianisation has taken over. The first one, who labelled Carantania, was Karl der Große in 8th century. Arnulf, someone of Bavarian descend, get prince, later (887-899) king and emperor of Carantania. The figure of Arnulf is not well researched, so an ideal actor in a fictional story, for making some assumptions, nobody knows they are true or not.

To make background short: The history of Carantania, later called Alpe Adria region, but never fixed as a national state, turned out as a multilingual and multicultural region, most of the time over centuries living peaceful together. If we look on Alpe Adria history, this has been an example for European Union today. As well, it’s worth to study the history to learn about things, how to overcome nationalism even today. The idea of the nation – a great development in the European history in the 19th century –, maybe is not practical any more. But national (or patriotic) identity is still important for egoism in the international agenda. Another important consideration is the migration, which has brought cultural and economic development to the region. Sometimes today it looks like, people forget that. One of the greatest disasters of the 20th century (as well of the whole History of mankind) has taken place in the Alpe Adria region, partially of course: The World War I, with the battle of Isonzo – a symbol of the nonsense of war. One, who has put it into words, was Ernest Hemingway with his novel “A Farewell to Arms”, which is based on a battle in Caporetto (Kobarid, Karfreit) at the Soca (Isonzo), today Slovenia.

Finally, maybe you should know that in my story the Green Devil is living in a world of Utopia – to make some visions, how to change life on earth today. Even the Green Devil is living without time, only for visiting the planets will return the time for the aliens during the voyage like this one on earth. Maybe so, even you understand the special (open) end of the story, which you find even in this abstract. It’s on yourself, what you do with that, nothing is pretermined. Just to use your brain and to use thoughtful material for reflections is required.

If you still don’t know, what Carantania means, no problem. In the German version I lined out many aspects of the label “Alpe Adria”, which today is not always used with historical background. I will not do here once more. So notice, this is not the Ciclovia Alpe Adria Radweg, the tourist cycling route from Salzburg to Grado. Of course, I crossed this way several times, but it is much more. In the following chapters you’ll find short summaries of the landscapes and important things. Every chapter is closed with a music link due to the region and with a photo gallery. For that take a click on the photo at the end of the chapter and you’ll find much more photos (they are on Picasa). You can look to the pictures up to maximum 1400 Pixels, if you have a bigger desktop. This gallery photos are the same as in the German version. For another 30 photos in the introduction (including “Prolog”) please look into the German version. Even I listed some books in the German version, which are in German language (guides, poetry, myths, history, mixed literature). Maybe some of them are available in English – I don’t know. For that look in the German version in the introduction to Chapter E.4 (even there you’ll find maps for the region). The chapters here are:

I. Salzburg/Carinthia: Hohe Tauern
II. Carinthian lakes, Nocky mountains
III. Friuli/Slovenia: Julish Alps 1 (Tarvisiano 1, Triglavski NP Mangart, Pokljuka, Bohinjsko jezero)
IV. Slovenia: Julish Alps 2 (Jelovica, Skofjelsko Hribovje, Tolminske)
V. Slovenia: Karst-Prealps (Kolovrat, Banjsice, Trnovski Gozd, Idrijsko)
VI. Slovenia/Friuli/Venzia Giulia: Vino e Mare (Triester Karst, Adria, Collio, Colli Orientali 1 & Julish Prealps south)
VII. Friuli/Carinthia: Carnia between Tagliamento and Gailtal
VIII. Friuli: From Julish (Pre)Alps to the Friulian plane (Tarvisiano 2, Colli Orientali 2 & Udine)

The data of the cycling tour:
37 trip days = 36 cycling days + 1 waiting in the rain day
+ half day for universal transit + Großglockner pre-cycling (Bruck – Fusch)

Photos: > 3800 (brutto), < 3400 (netto), ca. 1280 (in this report to find, mainly via link)

Total (responding to cycling days): 36 d | 2450 km | 50300 Hm | over 50 passes
Average data: 68 km/d | 1397 Hm/d | 6:00 h/d | 11,4 km/h
Hm-Index (topografic difficulty): 2053 Hm/100 km

to be continued

For every stage you find the data. Under them, there is listed the accommodation with price (Ü), the main food of the day (AE for supper, ME for lunch) and special activities like museums, excursions, for to be paid (B). I will not translate that. Sometimes I put my tent somewhere wild in the countryside. It would have been easy, to find accommodations close to that places (but not campings) – I had done just due to my priorities. If looking for digital tracks, you’ll find below the tour in 4 parts (I myself don’t use digital navigation system, always maps do the job better for me).

Carantania, 1. Carinthia: Bruck – Fusine (GPSies) [Prolog, Chapter I, II]

Carantania, 2. Carniola: Fusine – Storje (GPSies) [Chapter III, IV, V]

Carantania, 3. Venezia Giulia: Triester Karst – Gemona (GPSies) [Chapter VI]

Carantania, 4. Alpi Carniche – Tarvisiano – Udine (GPSies) [Chapter VII, VIII]


How to find the photos?

Please click on the inviting photo at the end of each chapter. This photo is not the first one of the gallery. If in the gallery, look for „Diashow“ (left above). It’s better to stop the automatic Diashow in the menu and to use the arrow keys of the menu or of your keyboard. For full screen use F11 key, back F11 again. For going back to the gallery use ESC key. For hearing the music, please click on the link with music description, before the photo gallery. I just can use free samples of the web, sometimes better ones not available for free.

to be continued

CHAPTER I
The glacial border of the north:
Water all over heaven and stone in the Hohe Tauern

Sa 13.6. Fusch – Ferleiten – Fuschertörl (2405 m) – Edelweißspitze (2571 m) – Fuschertörl – Hochtor (2505 m) – Golmitzerkaser – Franz-Josefs-Höhe (2362 m) – Golmitzerkaser – Apriach – Döllach
Ü: C Zirknitzer 8,20 €
AE (?): Pizza Capricciosa, Rotwein, Cafe 12,40 € (*)
74 km | 10,1 km/h | 7:17 h | 2610 Hm

With the start of the tour the weather changed dramatically. First there was coming hard wind and storm from south in front of me, later rain. It was getting cold, the days before had been very hot. This weather didn’t change until nearly two weeks. Of course I had sunny intervals, too. Some climbs turned out more difficult because of the weather. The Glockner road was covered by a rally with motor trike bikes and sport cars like Ferraris. This was another hard stuff for me. The most exciting place is maybe the glacier Pasterze, which is to climb by a separate road from main Glockner road. I was in good luck with a wonderful rainbow. Something special is the route via Apriach (not Heiligenblut). There you find some old mills, and somewhere formerly gold has been found. Another (short) variation is the old pavement road to Edelweißspitze (from Fuschertörl), which is the highest point of the Glockner road. Even this road, very small, is free for the cars – so a lot of traffic, too.

So 14.6. Döllach – Winklern – Außerfragant – (ca. 4 h Regenpause) – via Radweg (Ragga-Schlucht-Eingang, closed) – Obervellach – Mallnitz
Ü: H Eggerhof 40 € mFr
AE (dito): Knoblauchcrèmesuppe, Rostbraten, Bratkart., Salat, Vanillepudding m. Heidelbeersauce, Rotwein 20,10 € (**)
60 km | 13,1 km/h | 4:36 h | 915 Hm

Another awful day. I had to wait for some hours in a bistro. The canyons Groppenstein and Ragga were closed because of dangerous weather. I finally just climbed the road to Mallnitz, where other cyclists use the tunnel of the train for crossing the Alps. The room in the hotel was very small and uncomfortable, because I didn’t want to pay five Euros more. There is a small camping in the village, too, but weather was not inviting for that. A lot of private guesthouses are not available in summer – maybe someway better, you’ll phone before arriving. (I’m always with out any phone on tour.)

Mo 15.6. Mallnitz – Seebachtal/Stappitzer See – Mallnitz – Obervellach – Groppensteinklamm (walk, ca. 1,5 h) – Ragga-Schlucht (walk, ca. 1 h) – Obervellach – Penk – Höhe am Danielsberg (?m) – Preisdorf/Reißeck – Kolbnitz – via R8 (Glocknerradweg) – Lurnfeld
Ü: C An der Möll 0 € (k. P.)
AE (Kreinerhof): Kürbiscrèmesuppe, Hirschgulasch, Knödel, Bohnen, Rotwein 20,80 € (***)
B: Groppensteinklamm 6 €
B: Ragga-Schlucht 6 €
54 km | 13,6 km/h | 3:58 h | 570 Hm

On a sunny day this morning route would be some highlight. You can ride an easy way to Stappitz Lake. Further more, it’s forbidden to ride with bicycle, but cars are allowed, if they have permission. This is a special case in Austria, much more special in Carinthia. There has been a judgement with a cyclist, who made a ranger responsible for a stone on the way, over it he felled and got injured. This is a quite crazy society, nobody anymore responsible for himself. On the other side, it isn’t acceptable, that such a judgement will stop activities in the mountains. There still some forest roads in Carinthia, which even forbidden to walk (because you can break your legs like a cyclist). Anyway, you should maybe decide against these regulations, if you feel free. Of course, you can’t be sure, to get problems. I hope to get a chance to analyze this with Autrian tourist board on the next tourist fair in Stuttgart.

I visited the canyons Groppensteinschlucht and Ragga-Klamm. Both are worth to visit. The Ragga-Klamm is closer with the stones to you, great noise of water. The Groppensteinschlucht is more idyllic, with big waterfalls, great scenery, better done for painters. Further on you can ride on Glockner cycling way, which is same way Ciclovia Alpe Adria Radweg. I did some variations. In Lurnfeld/Möllbrücke you’ll find different cycling ways crossing.

Di 16.6. Lurnfeld – Pusarnitz – Lendorf – Lieserhofen – Trebesing – Gmünd (visit Pankratium, ca. 1 h) – Brandstatt – via Malta-Hochalmstraße – Gmünder Hütte (1186 m)
Ü: H Gmünder Hütte 33 € mFr
AE (dito): Schweinebraten, Knödel, Sauerkraut, Apfelstrudel, Most, Bier ? € (*)
B: Pankratium Gmünd 8,90 €
42 km | 11,1 km/h | 3:46 h | 910 Hm

It’s again heavy rain this day – in the morning and in the late afternoon, well whole night further on. I visited pankratium in Gmünd, a museum for astonishing things, better to say for waves and acoustic vibrations. You have to participate a lot during the guidance. If you like other things, there are lot of art galleries in Gmünd, as well a Porsche museum. I started for Malta valley, but had to stop in the middle because of the rain. The Malta valley, of course, is famous for its waterfalls, on these days even for water from heaven.

Mi 17.6. Gmünder Hütte – via Malta-Hochalmstraße – Kölnbreinsperre (1933m, visit, ca. 1,5 h) – Pflüglhof – Gößfälle (walk, ca. 1 h) – Brandstatt – Mentebauer Hütte (1124 m) – Brandstatt – Malta
Ü: C Maltatal 16,80 €
AE (dito): Schweinemedaillons, Spätzle, Gemüse, Rotwein, Cafe ? € (***)
ME (GH Kölnbreinstüberl): Kesselgulasch, Knödel, Apfelsaft 10 € (**)
B: Kölnbreintalsperre 6,50 €
50 km | 11,7 km/h | 4:19 h | 1135 Hm

The day was not rainy, but windy (storm). I climbed up to the huge dam, which I visited from inside. There you get a lot of detailed information about engineering such a building. On top it was not possible to ride further on, because of the storm and the water crossing the ways. Some other waterfalls are close to the road – three of them called “Gößfälle”. There you can go for a road, later offroad, to Gießener Hütte. Because the cottage was closed, I just ride part of it, for getting back to Malta with a comfortable camping.

Music: Saxophone and flute player Wolfgang Puschnig from Klagenfurt is mixing Austrian, Slovenian and other roots music from the Alps with jazz or other modern music – creating new, modernized Alpine culture: Teaser aus: Wolfgang Puschnig „For The Love Of It“, col legno (7:01 min.)

Photo gallery chapter I (145 photos):



to be continued

CHAPTER II
Idyllic Places, but not for everybody:
The Carinthian lakes and its welfare smash

Do 18.6. Malta – Eisentratten – Nöringsattel (1665 m) – Radenthein – Döbriach – via Radweg Millstätter See Südufer – Schlossvilla – Egelsee – Molzbichl – Mauthen – Zlan – Hochegg
Ü: privat (GH Sonnenhof) 0 €
AE (dito): Hasenfilet, Kroketten, Rotkohl, Bohnen, Schokopfannkuchen, Cafe 30,80 € (***)
69 km | 10,0 km/h | 6:53 h | 1880 Hm

There are two important places or routes today. The Nöringsattel is not very well known. The pass is in the higher ranges an offroad forestry road. If looking for great landscapes, you don’t need to ride it. But it’s a good possibility to shorten the way between Liesertal and Radenthein. Of course, even some asphalt parts are not of best quality, there is no problem to ride it with a randonneur. Next you can discover the south bank of Milltätter See, which is not suitable for bathing. You’ll find a good offroad way through wood, sometimes meadows with view on the lake. For some parts you have to leave the bank route because of private property. At Schlossvilla you may cross the lake with a ship or go hard climbing bank way, or leave the lake southward for an interesting place. The Egelsee is a small lake within swamp area. It’s an inspirational place including frog concert, just a few local people bathing there. You should be accurate to find the way; from the other side it’s easier, but steep too. Some parts you need to push the bike, maybe. Finally I climbed first part of the next mountain road. I stopped at a restaurant as the only guest and the owner allowed me to sleep inside a separate part of the restaurant (for free, instead hotel rooms available).

Fr 19.6. Hochegg – Goldeck-Seetal (1895 m) – Goldeck-Gipfel/-Panorama-Alm (2140 m) – Zlan – Stockenboi – Weißensee (Ost) – Farchtensee – Boden (1044 m) – Kreuzen – Windische Höhe (1110 m) – Kerschdorf – Wertschach
Ü: C Alpenfreude 12,30 €
AE (Gailtaler Hof): Wienerschnitzel, Pommes, Rotwein, Eis m. Himbeeren, Cafe 22,40 € (*)
78 km | 11,3 km/h | 6:53 h | 1795 Hm

If you like great scenery with golden-green larches and meadows, some peaky green mountains, you should ride the Goldeck road. On top for bicycles, you can choose some “forbidden” Alps roads. Not really forbidden, bur unsure the status, is the way to Goldeck top with a nice cottage with delicious products of cacao. From Seetal parking place it’s an unpaved way, but less steep than the road before. The valley to Weißensee is easy to ride and you’ll find little infrastructure. There is a wonderful waterfall close to the lake. The lake itself is less touristy than on the west side, as well there is just small place aside camping and hotel to go to the lake. Another idyllic place is the Farchtensee – I had another special time with rain and the rainbow after. Next go down and upwards again for Windische Höhe, someway lonesome area, even living bears there. From Windische Höhe and later you have a good panorama to the Karnitischer Kamm, borderline mountains to Italy.

Sa 20.6. Wertschach – Bad Bleiberg – via Forststraße – Villacher Alpenstraße/Dobratsch – Roßtratte (1742 m) – Villach – Puch – Krastalsattel (654 m) – Köttwein – Arriach
Ü: GH Alte Point 37 € mFr
AE (dito): Selleriecrèmesuppe m. Birne, gebackene Reinanke m. Nüssen, Bratkart., Rotwein, Panacotta m. Erdbeeren ca. 34 € (****)
70 km | 10,9 km/h | 6:59 h | 1725 Hm

Bad Bleiberg is an old town for mining, today just for tourists. An accident in the mine has brought new richness for today – a thermal fountain. Next route is someway unofficial and difficult. You can cross an unpaved forestry road to the toll road Villacher Alpe to Roßtratte, with Dobratsch mountain on top, but just possible to conquer by foot. Of course again a good unpaved Alp road, forbidden for cyclists from Roßtrappe to Dobratsch. Because of cold and thunderstorm-like weather I didn’t take the risk for riding the forbidden part. Instead, even the unpaved road to toll road is very heavy, even more with thunderstorm without any protection. Nice flowers all over at the plateau Villacher Alpe. On the road down to Villach there is a big out-look to the Red Wall, the hill had broken down in the 14th century. Out-look much more to Drau valley, Karawanken and Julish Alps, later to Villach and greater lakes of Carinthia south. There is an unknown crossing from Drau valley to Afritzerbach, just an easy climb via Krastalsattel. You can sea some sculptures from international artists on the whole route. From the shadowed parts in the Afritzerbach you climb strong to Arriach, the geographical centre of Carinthia. Very good location there with Alte Point (dinner and room).

So 21.6. Arriach – Wöllaner-Nock-Straße – Waldener Hütte (1960 m) – Arriach – Innerteuschen (1051 m) – Himmelberg – Flatschacher See – Feldkirchen
Ü: privat (Alien- & Radlerfreund) 0 €
AE (privat): Gemüsesuppe, Pizza, Kirschkuchen, Rotwein 0 € (*)
57 km | 10,5 km/h | 5:22 h | 1575 Hm

Another toll road is climbing up to Wöllaner Nock, better close under the top (Walder Hütte). Most of the road is unpaved, but easy to ride – well, not in respect to the steepness. Last part no cars allowed (from Geigerhütte to Walderhütte, last one was closed). You have big carpets of alpine roses on top. The weather again was hard, starting with ice rain. I escaped on the way back down. Next way over the saddle of Innerteuschen is not so important, but with little traffic. After castle in Himmelberg you can find a sideway road to the Flatschach Lake, just small for bathing, not very important for the landscape, but woods around full of blueberries. In Feldkirchen I met two cycling guys from the town, inviting me to stay there overnight. So the day turned out short. The cycling guys are interested in special technical design of good racing bikes, one worked as a watch-maker.

Mo 22.6. Feldkirchen – Glanhofen – Tauernteich/Tauerneck (910 m) – Ossiach – St. Andrä – Wemberg – Stallhofen – Köstenberg – Ebenfeld – Forstsee – Pörtschach – Krumpendorf – Klagenfurt – Viktring – Keutschacher See/Camping Sabotnik
Ü: C Sabotnik 14,10 €
AE (dito): Grillteller, Pommes, Gemüse, Most 16,50 € (-)
91 km | 12,4 km/h | 7:21 h | 1225 Hm

Di 23.6. Keutschacher See/Camping Sabotnik
Ü: C Sabotnik 14,10 €
AE (dito): Kässpätzle, Salat, Rotwein 14,80 € (*)
ME (dito): Bohnensuppe, Spaghetti Frutti di Mare, Salat, Rotwein, Cafe (-)
0 km | – km/h | – h | 0 Hm

Instead the first day started sunny, a storm in the afternoon looks like weather change again. So the day at Lake Keutschacher was disastrous – just raining, short brake in late afternoon. I had to wait the whole day in the camping restaurant. The most exciting place on the way to Keutschach is the Tauernteich, a small road, partially unpaved in the back of the bigger Ossiacher See downward. The Ossiacher See is mainly private property, well known in Ossiach with classical music festival in summer. Even worse is private property at the Wörthersee, north bank. The cycling way looks sometimes like a cage between road, railway and luxury buildings. In the east you don’t need to cross Klagenfurt for surrounding the lake. Somewhere in a lake village I found streets forbidden for cyclists, but allowed for cars. If you look for a better bathing lake with free places, you should choose for the Forstsee, a storage lake, but with a lot of niches. You can reach by low traffic routes through wooded areas with blueberries.

Mi 24.6. Camping Sabotnik – Plaschischen – Pyramidenkogel (Visit, ca. 0,5 h) – Plaschischen – Reifnitz (Wörthersee) – Maiernigg – Gustav-Mahler-Komponierhäuschen (Visit, ca. 0,5 h) – Maiernigg – Viktring – Lambichl – Gaisach – Wegscheide – Burg Hollenburg – Kirschentheuer – Ferlach – via cycling way – Tscheppaschlucht (Walk, ca. 1,5 h) – via Loiblpass road – Kirschentheuer – Freistritz im Rosental
Ü: C Juritz 13,10 €
AE (dito): Kohlrabicrèmesuppe, Kalbsrahmgeschnetzeltes, Rösti, überbackene Erdbeeren m. Vanilleeis, Rotwein 51 € (*****)
B: Pyramidenkogel-Turm 11 €
B: Gustav-Mahler-Komponierhäuschen 2 €
B: Tscheppaschlucht 7,50 €
68 km | 13,7 km/h | 4:53 h | 910 Hm

The Pyramidenkogel is the highest view tower made by wood at all. Located on a hill, you have great panorama to all sides, most impressing on the Wörthersee. You can choose walking the steps upwards or take an elevator – it’s the same price. The south part (even I know from an earlier visit) is quieter than the north bank; as well you’ll find more free parts at the lake. At southeast, first houses of Maiernigg, you look at a private property with a yellow villa. This had been the house Gustav Mahler formerly, living there partially with his family. Gustav Mahler composed some important works in Maiernigg, beside that he was of very sportive character. For composing he used a special chalet in wood above the lake, you can reach by a short unpaved steep road, alternative a more idyllic walking trail. In the composing chalet you find different samples of his work and life and you can get more information from the guide, who his a musician, too (you should ask him, there is no special guidance, it’s to small for that).

Next scenery place is the monastery of Viktring, today a school, in summer for short a festival place with different kind of crossover music, originally organized by Friedrich Gulda, and located at Ossiacher See formerly. Next strange place is a memorial for Jörg Haider in Lambichl, where the former political chief of Carinthia had an accident coming to death. Haider was a populist representative of the Right in Austria, who played a crucial role in discriminating the Slavic minority people (in earlier times they had been the majority) and another crucial role in the bankruptcy of the bank Alpe Adria Hypo, which brought a big depth to Carinthian budget (instead of many millionaires Carinthia is the poorest federal state of Austria at all).

If you go for a sideway road to the Drau, you have chance to visit the castle Hollenburg, which is private property, but you can take a look the open parts. There are some old carriages and a nice inner court. In Kirschentheuer there is museum for bees, the traditional painted bee houses you can even visit from outside. Carnica is a well known honey of the Rosental. For the Tscheppa canyon you can use two ways. The Loibl road is better to ride downward, because of traffic. There is a cycling way from Ferlach to the lower entry, but some short parts of this way are not the best. Anyway, on the walk to the canyon you’ll find an increasing amount of waterfalls, the most important at the end. With the ticket you can ride back partially with a bus, but walking back is maybe faster. The camping in Freitritz is strictly recommended, if you like a gourmet like dinner.

Do 25.6. Freistritz/Rosental – Maria Elend – Mallenitzen – Oberferlach – Egg/Faaker See – Drobolach – via cycling way Faaker See – Faak am See – Finkenstein – Susalitsch – Korpitsch – Radendorf – Wurzenpass (1071 m) – Podkoren – via D2 cycling way/Adria Bike – Ratece – via D2 – Valico di Fusine Ratece (1073 m) – via D2/FVG1a – Fusine (Locanda Mondi)
Ü: H Locanda Mondi 40 € mFr/mAE (ohne Rw)
AE (dito): Polenta m. Hackfleisch, Pasta m. Wildragout, Gebäck, Früchte-Fondue m. Schokosauce, Rotwein (**)
74 km | 11,2 km/h | 6:29 h | 1260 Hm

There is a calm atmosphere at the Drau, but the cycling way is ignoring the variety of the landscape. So maybe it’s better to ride on the road. It depends, what you like more. The Faaker See is an extreme sample of private property lakes in Austria. There just a few free places you can take a look to the lake. Camping and other official places are much commercialized. The cycling way in the west is something like an awful trail through the wood. You better should use the road – but both without views to the lake. It’s worth to continue sideway roads in the valley, because small charming villages of the Slavic minority. For the Wurzenpass you need a lot of power, be short, but very steep. The landscape is not important, but you’ll find some relicts from the last war (i.e. a tank close to the top). The Slovenian side of Canal valley is easy to ride by a new cycling way, formerly railway route. It’s also known as part of Adria Bike, which is an alternative in Slovenia to Ciclovia Alpe Adria Radweg in Italy, which you cross in Tarvisio. For overnight I stayed in a new hostel for cyclists on the way to the Laghi di Fusine.

Music: Gustav Mahler composed the Rückert songs, an admired poet of Mahler, who had lyrical talent, too. As well, poetic music from a poetic place, lost in thoughts.
Gustav Mahler/Friedrich Rückert „Ich bin der Welt abhanden gekommen“ (6:35 min.), Elisabeth Schwarzkopf, Bruno Walter/Wiener Philharmoniker

Photo gallery chapter II (167 photos):



to be continued

CHAPTER III
The Slovenian peak myth in the mirror of emerald brightness:
The fascination of Triglav national park

Fr 26.6. Fusine (Locanda Mondi) – Laghi di Fusine (929 m) – Rifugio Zacchi (1380 m) – Fusine – Tarvisio – Cave del Predil – Lago del Predil – Passo del Predil (1156 m) – Mangart-Sattel (2072 m) – Log pod Magartom – Kal Korotnica – Lepena
Ü: C Klin 12 €
AE (dito): Gemüsesuppe, Spaghetti Bolognese, Salat, Eis, Rotwein 15,20 € (*)
84 km | 11,2 km/h | 7:26 h | 2185 Hm

The emerald colour opens next section with the Laghi Fusine, someway more green later on the lake of Predil. The sensational view continues if riding upwards to Rifugio Zacchi (very hard), where you stay overnight, too. You are always surrounded by the great mountain scenery, mainly created by the massive of the Mangart. Maybe you feel like in Nepal or Tibet there. I turned round Mangart from the other side by riding the Mangart road. Even this road is a beautiful mountain road, the highest in Slovenia, and one of the most wonderful in the Alps.

Sa 27.6. Lepena – Klementa Juga (700 m) – Krnsko jezero (1389m, walk, ca. 6 h, continued break caused by thunderstorm 2 h) – Klementa Juga – Lepena – Soca – Trenta
Ü: C Trenta 10 €
ME (Planina dom pri Krnskih jezero): Gulasch, Polenta, Radler >13 €
AE (dito): Pizza Capricciosa, Rotwein 10 € (*)
27 km | 10,1 km/h | 2:36 h | 595 Hm

I reached the Lepena valley very late last evening. Therefore I had just very few looks on the blue colour of the Soca and lower Lepenjica in the darkness, but it’s still lightening all night. I get more wonderful impressions today in the late afternoon, but just after a heavy thunderstorm. I was in good luck to reach back Klementa Juga right before the thunderstorm. Before I had a long walk to Krnsko jezero, enclosed by mountains, with alpine roses around as well some yellow flowers on other sides. The walk is not so easy, if you aren’t a trained mountain walker. The great scenery is exclusive just around the lake on the plateau, most parts before are not very impressing (wood). Not so far from the lake is a cottage, you’ll get some food or can stay the night. It’s worth to take time for looking to the different canyons of the Soca – some of them not easy to get a view from. But Soca in the upper parts is always blue, because of micro carbon material from the stones. Other parts, which are more emerald green, like the lakes before, get their colour from microbic algas. Up to Trenta you get many possibilities for camping or other accommodations. The last camping is even outside Trenta, one first climb to ride. Before the Soca valley is easy to ride.

So 28.6. Trenta – Izvir Soce (walk, ca. 0,5 h) – Vrsic (1611 m) – Kranjska Gora – via D-2 – Mojstrana – Pericnik slap (walk, ca. 0,5 h) – Mojstrana
Ü: JH Jozlnu 13,30 € oFr
AE (Pizzeria): Pizza m. Krainerwurst, Rotwein 9,50 € (**)
54 km | 10,7 km/h | 4:59 h | 1230 Hm

The Vrsic pass, which I climbed the second time, but now in opposite direction, is always ambitious, with 49 or 50 hairpin curves, both sides in summary. It’s worth to visit the source of the Soca, with a guesthouse, too. There you’ll find another valley with an unpaved road; I had taken some part of it, but not to the end. On better days Vrsic pass is very busied with cars, racing bikers and more. The north side is different with larches and mountain views, but no river aside. You just find back to water close to Kranjska Gora with the Jasna Lake. Next way is a cycling way on an old railway ground, easily to ride and with a lot of infrastructure for cyclists. In Mojstrana you can choose for camping (Dovj), youth hostel or other accommodations. In opposite to the hostel you’ll find an alpine museum (I didn’t visit). There is another blind valley with great mountain scenery, but I just take half of it. There you’ll find a nice waterfall (Pericnik).

Mo 29.6. Mojstrana – Kosmacev preval (847 m) – Radovna – Krnica – Zatrnik – Mrzli Studenec (1213 m) – Veliko Beljsko barje – Mrzli Studenec – Goreljek – Podjelje – Jereka – Studor – Stara Fuzina – Ribcev Laz – Ukanc – Dom pri Savici – Slap Savica (walk, ca. 0,5 h) – Ukanc
Ü: C Bohinj 10 €
AE (R Don Andro): Beefsteak m. Steinpilzen & Pfifferlingen, Pommes, Vanilletorte m. Schokosauce & Sahne, Rotwein 23,90 € (****)
B: Slap Savica 2,50 €
64 km | 11,4 km/h | 5:33 h | 1170 Hm

From Mojstrana is a short climb to plateau with the Radovna valley in east direction. Two other blind valleys there are possible to ride. The Radovna valley is mainly unpaved, but easy to ride. You’ll find information tables, i.e. for an old mill, or for the Radovna village, which was destroyed by German fascists in total. From Krnica you follow a hard climb on a good road to Pokljuka plateau, maybe known from winter sport (Biathlon). It’s a marshy country, sometimes remembering to the Black Forest in Germany. There are different ways to reach the Bohinjsko jezero. The way I choose is less wood, but more alpine cottages, today used for holiday chalets. In Bohinjska Cesnjica I found a delicious chocolate store and café – don’t miss it, if in this region. The south bank of the Bohinjkso jezero is wooded area, but you’ll find a lot of possibilities to take a bath. If you pass the camping in Ukanc, you can climb to the Savica fall – better to say, to the parking place there with guesthouse. You have to walk many steps for the waterfall and to pay entry. Down under close to the camping there is a cemetery in memory for lost soldiers in the World War I. Good restaurant in the village, camping ground direct at the water of the lake. Some of the last photos in the gallery will represent the morning mood at the lake (next day).

Music: The Slovenian Band Katalena mixes traditional tunes of the country with rock, pop or jazz, creating refreshing new sounds out of it: Katalena: Dez (10:21 min.)

Photo gallery chapter III (153 photos):



to be continued

CHAPTER IV
The poetry of the Prealps of Oberkrain:
Pearls of towns, country and rivers in Jelovica, Skofjelsko Hribovje & Tolminske

Di 30.6. Ukanc – Ribcev Laz – Bohinjska Bistrica – Rovtarica – Raztovka (1122 m) – Drazgose – Podblica – Log – Kranj – Skofia Loka
Ü: H Turizem Loka 30 € mFr (normal 50 €)
AE (Gostilna Kasca): Pilzsuppe, slow. Ravioli m. Kart.füllung u. Gorgonzolasauce, Käsekuchen m. Blaubeeren & Erdbeersauce, Rotwein 23,90 € (****)
81 km | 13,0 km/h | 6:07 h | 1025 Hm

It’s a very remote area, when leaving Bohinjska Bistrica as a local centre. The forestry road via Rovtarica to Drazgose is unpaved, but suitable for randonneurs. You just meet a few cars, maybe some wood trucks. In Drazgose you’ll a partisan memorial, same way Drazgose was destroyed by German fascists. You follow some hills with green meadows until coming down to Kranj. Kranj is well known for the poet France Preseren, the best known poet of Slovenia. He lived there in the last part of his life. One important work of him is the Sonetni Venec. It’s a cyclical poem, which bewitched his great love, called Julia, but never responded his love. The architecture of Kranj town is in the style of k.u.k, Sofia Loka is someway more picturesque with different eras of architecture. Its significance goes back as Bischoflack as a setting of the Bistum Freising in Bavaria, still important for several hundred years. Still remaining symbol from that time is the big monastery building. It’s not easy to find accommodations there, because most tourists leave the town in the evening. I found some good place, but normally much more expensive.

Mi 1.7. Skofia Loka – Gabrovo – Zapreval – Murave – Crni kal (1119 m) – Potok – Davca – Davca slapovi – Zgaga – Petrovo Brdo (803 m) – Podbrdo – Korotnica – Kneza – Podmelec – Slap Sopota (walk, ca. 0,5 h) – Poljubnj
Ü: C wild (H/R Kobala) 0 €
AE (dito): Salat m. Schinken, Pasta m. Tomatensauce, Rotwein 10,50 € (***)
82 km | 10,9 km/h | 7:28 h | 2000 Hm

Next is another remote area, but unpaved parts are still short. The most difficult ones are from Crni kal down to Potok and the road down to Zgaga (but that way an alternative via Porezen is possible). It’s a mix of wood and meadows, most of the climbs are very hard. There is little infrastructure, but some you can find. Even I met a Suisse family, making holidays there. Maybe most exciting is the short canyon before Davca and the waterfall, reachable unpaved by a blind road. You’ll be back on normal roads in Zgaga or Petrovo Brdo, the valley down is accompanied by the railway with some bridges. A short way to Tolmin with some up and downs is possible to find in Kneza. There you’ll find an impressing stone area and a waterfall, not direct at the road. The hotel Kobala had no more small rooms for me (a bigger one to expensive), but they allowed me to place my tent on their ground.

Do 2.7. Poljubnj – Slap Beri (walk, ca. 1 h) – Poljubnj – Tolmin – Zatolmin – Hudicev most/Tolminska korita (walk, ca. 1 h) – Zatolmin – Volarje – Kamno – Vrsno (591 m) – Smast – Kobarid – Stara Selo – Kobarid – Camp Lazar
Ü: C Lazar 10 € (SP wegen später Ankunft)
AE (H/R Topli Val): Tintenfischrisotto, Wildfilet, Knödel & Cannelloni Kobarid-Art, Nussteigtaschen Kobarid-Art, Rotwein, Cafe 41 € (*****)
B: Tolminska Korita 4 €
38 km | 11,3 km/h | 3:15 h | 675 Hm

I used the morning mood for a walk to a waterfall, starting at the border of the village. Next water project was the Tolminska korita, a canyon with very impressing stone walls and blue water between. The place even got famous, because Dante Alighieri had got inspired to his “Divine Comedy”, nearby a cave – but now closed. In the afternoon I climbed to Vrsno, a small mountain village with the Krn Mountain behind. The peak of the Krn had changed during World War I, because it was shot down by artillery. I didn’t ride higher, because thunderstorm war threatening. In Vrsno is the birth house of Simon Gregorcic, another important poet of Slovenia. He has given wonderful words to the nature of his homeland, especially to the Soca. For the finish of the day I tried to get a place in Slovenians best restaurant Hisa Franko in Stara Selo close to Kobarid. But I failed this day, because too much reservations. But Kobarid is a centre of Slovenian cooking, so easy to find a good alternative. The photo gallery closes with pictures from the walk to the waterfall Kozjak, which I had done in the next morning. That walk is strictly recommended, a wonderful place.

Music: Slavko Avsenik, once even a ski jumper, created a new, but commercial folk sound with the Original Oberkrainer. The Slovenian choir Perpetuum Jazzile shows an energetic a cappella version of Avsenik-compositions to reduce the music back to folkloric traditions: Perpetuum Jazzile „Avsenik Medley“ (3:26 min.)

Photo gallery chapter IV (123 photos):



to be continued

CHAPTER V
Bloody history and springs of life between Alps and Karst:
Looking for footprints in Kolovrat, Banjsice, Trnovski Gozd & Idrijsko

Fr 3.7. Camp Lazar – Slap Kozjak (walk, ca. 1 h) – Kobarid (Visit Kriegsmuseum, ca. 1 h) – Idrsko – Livek (690 m) – Livske Ravne (1037 m) – Kolovrat max. (1169 m) – Na Gradu – Sedlo Solarji (996 m) – Sleme (865 m) – Planinski Dom pod Jezo – Pusno – Kambresko – Slap Sovink – Preval (339 m) – Rocinj – Kozarsce – Preval Poljance (253 m) – Most na Soci
Ü: H Lucija 40 € mFr (normal 45 €)
AE (Gostilna Skrt): Gnocchi m. Steinpilzen, Putenschnitzel, Pommes, Rotwein 18,20 € (*)
B: Kobarisko Muzeji 3 €
51 km | 10,4 km/h | 4:46 h | 1225 Hm

After the walk to the waterfall I visited the Kobarid Museum. This is a war & peace museum, its main topic is the World War I. Kobarid and its surrounding was one of the main battlefields during Isonzo battles 195-17, at least 12 battles, just the last battle has brought movement in the front. You’ll find a lot of memories and equipment from the soldiers. Everything is explained in different languages. Even you get to see a video about the regional war history. The most emotional affect you’ll have if reading the notes of the soldiers. You can’t accept war any more, if you look at the lies of the generals (it’s all time the same) and shamed brutality of war mentality. A second section considers Slovenian history and traditions and prominent figures of the history like the poets. You can follow the Way of Peace from Log pod Mangartom to Sistiana/Monfalcone at the Adria. Not every part is for cycling, but next Kolovrat route is important part of it. It’s a steep way to Kolovrat, first Livek, but even higher further on. Close to the highest point of the route there is another museum – this time open air, to get impressions from war system. From pass Solarjii ongoing is an unpaved part, but easy to ride. With first village asphalt is still back. If going down in Kambresko to Soca, notice the waterfall direct at the road. I was a little bit lucky to find stone holes there, because another thunderstorm had come over me.

Sa 4.7. Most na Soci – ? (580 m) – Tolminski Lom – Kanalski Lom – ? (798 m) – ? (888 m) – Kal Nad Kanalom – ? (813 m) – Lokovec – Cepovan – Grgar – Preval (336 m) – Trnovo – Lokve (947)
H/Gostilcne Winkler 38 mFr
AE (dito): Gnocchi m. Kräutern & Schinken, Roastbeef pikant, Pommes, Gemüse, Joghurt Cake m. Erbeersauce, Rotwein ? € (*****)
59 km | 9,4 km/h | 6:11 h | 1735 Hm

In the north you are leaving alpine region and you reach Karst region in the south. The most exciting route is between Kanalski Lom and Kal Nad Kanalom with mystical wood, full of sun through the leaves. The Cepovan valley is less important, you are always in the sun. From the pass close to Grgar you can look down to Soca and Nova Gorica, Gorizia etc., looking on the two bridges. The railway bridge is a protected historical building. I’ll come back to that place later, but today I continued to Lokve. From Trnovo to Lokve you’ll see the typical troughs of the Karst – most time in wood, but even some meadows. It’s always steep with short up and downs. In Lokve is the best place of all villages in that area to find a good restaurant and different kind of accommodations. The pot roast there was the best I ever could smell. Best quality out of homemade products. The restaurant strictly recommended, the hotel not so important.

So 5.7. Lokve – ? (968 m) – Cepovan – Preval Drnutk (761 m) – Dolenja Trebusa – Krt – Slap Prisjak (walk, ca. 1 h) – Gorenja Trebusa – Mrzla Rupa/Pstota (924 m) – Vojsko (1077 m) – Idrija
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Gostilna pri Skafarja): Ravioli m. Kart.füllung & Lamm, Skafar-Schnitzel m. Schinken, Pommes, Salat, Eis, Rotwein 26,50 € (***)
52 km | 9,5 km/h | 5:20 h | 1180 Hm

The unpaved road down to Cepovan is very steep and maybe hard to climb in opposite direction. After short part on asphalt there is another offroad part through a wonderful pass with a lot of stony sculptures (Preval Drnutuk). The road is a little better than Lokve – Cepovan. From Dolenja Trebusa you follow a wonderful valley up to Gorenja Trebusa. There is another waterfall to reach by foot, but not easy to reach. Some other bathing places you’ll find close to the road. Asphalt ends close after Gorenja Trebusa (just a small bistro) and next climb to Mrzla Rupa is very hard with heavy gravel and enormous steepness. In Mrzla Rupa you are back on asphalt, but again one steep part to Vojsko. Then the road goes down, but steep down just in the last part to Idrija (difficult road there). Mercury mining had been crucial for Idrija for some hundred years, one of biggest mining in the world. Of course they had a lot of insane people with that kind of mining. Unless, Idrija today looks comfortable and you see a lot of sportive people there.

Mo 6.7. Idrija – via Krajinski Park Zgornja Idrijca (channel way) – Idrijska Bela – Zadlog – Crni Vrh – Strmec/Godovic Pass (852 m) – Col – Soteska Bela (Walk, 0,5 h) – Vrhpolje – Vipava – Mance – Kobdilj – Dobravlje – Kazlje – Storje
Ü: C Kamp Storje 10,65 €
AE: Selbstversorgung, Weißwein gratis
75 km | 13,0 km/h | 6:45 h | 1065 Hm

There is a special canal way, possible to ride with bicycle. At the end you have to cross the Idrijca by a walking bridge. It’s a recreation area, with shadowed wood. Maybe it’s better to use the road, because otherwise you miss the Divje jezero, a small Karst lake with the shortest river of Slovenia. Up to Idrijska Bela you follow the river on asphalt road. There is a recreation era at the end with some infrastructure. There are unpaved roads further more to reach Mrzla Rupa or Vojsko. I didn’t proof that. To climb up to Zadlog is hard, partially unpaved with some sandy parts. In Zadlog you have reached a Karst plateau. From Crni Vrh you follow a road with more traffic because road is important for transit. Coming down the other side, you can look at the breaking off of the Karst. Next region begins with Vrpolhje, the Vipava winery route. The Vipava spring you can see at an idyllic place in Vipava. Then I had to hurry for the rest of the day, because there is little infrastructure in the villages – even just a few of them. This way winery tourism is less important than at the Karst winery route. Unfortunatly, the good restaurant in Storje was closed on Monday. So I had just a quarter of wine from the camping, every guest gets for free.

Music: Peter Savli represents the young composer generation of Slovenia. This sample shows unusual instrumentation for marimba and orchestra. There are different influences in the music including ragtime rhythms finally: Peter Savli „Koncert za marimbo in orkester” (14:53 min.)

Photo gallery chapter V (142 photos):



to be continued

CHAPTER VI
The wine, the sea and a cave:
Mediterranean enjoyment between Triester Karst, Collio & Colli Orientali

Di 7.7. Storje – Sezana – via Basovska cesta – Basovizza – Draga San Elia – via Ciclopedonale Giordano Cottur – Bottazzo – Cascata Ghiacciatta /Val Rosandra (walk, 0,5 h, not the whole valley) – Bagnoli della Rosandra/Rifugio Mario Premuda – Dolina – Prebenico – Stramare/Rabuiese – Ankaran
Ü: C Ankaran 15,65 €
AE (dito): Pasta m. Oliven & Schinken, gem. frittierter Fisch, Pommes, Eis, Weißwein 27,90 € (**)
50 km | 12,2 km/h | 4:02 h | 605 Hm

In Sezana I found some poetry from Srecko Kosovel on different places outside. It’s a tribute to the great poet, living close Sezana in Tomaj at the Karst winery route. From Sezana there is a gravel road to Basovizza, not easy to ride, better for mountain bikes. A short interval on asphalt to Draga San Elia. There you cross a cycling way through the Val Rosandra, formerly a railway track. It’s okay for randonneurs. Inside, half way, there is a very steep road to a bistro (Bottazzo). There you’ll find some bathing places and you can reach the waterfall above. For getting a best view on the waterfall, you can take walk through the Val Rosandra, it’s allowed to ride bicycle there, as well not recommended if not with MTB. I crossed some little villages later until coming down to Koper route. There is big traffic and a bicycle is not accepted some ways, but you must be “criminal”, because no other way. If on the way to Ankaran, traffic is less. Ankaran itself is a place of big tourist trouble, so better stay not there, if possible. Even Italian side is better in Muggia for example.

Mi 8.7. Ankaran – Lazzaretto – Muggia || ferrry (ca. 25 min.) || Trieste (harbour) – Trieste (university) – Villa Opicina – Borgo Grotta Gigante (visit, ca. 1 h, waiting another 1 h) – Sgonico – San Pelagio – Gorjansko (winery tasting, ca. 1 h) – Komen – Skrbina – Zelezna vrata (445m?/345m?) – Dornberk – Zalosce
Ü: C Turisticna Kmetija 10,63 €
AE (dito): Aufschnitt m. Schinken, Käse, Auberginen, Eis, Weißwein 13 € (*)
T: Personenfähre Muggia – Trieste 4,30 € (P) + 0,90 € (V)
B: Grotta Gigante 12 €
B: Weinprobe Strekelj, Gorjansko 0 € (Einkauf Flasche Likör 8 €)
64 km | 12,8 km/h | 4:55 h | 825 Hm

The morning mood on the half island of Muggia is full of refreshing spirit. You look over vineyards to sea and the big ships. The ferry (just persons and bicycles) is not easy to find in Muggia. You should ask local people. Take a look into the small picturesque town. With the ferry you’re direct in the main area of Trieste with the historical coffee houses – something of similar character to Vienna – the other end of Alpe Adria region. Just sit down and look to the people, breating timeless. Many poets have done before so and still do so. Of course, some modern bistros are less charming than the old ones, but the old ones are someway looking jetset-like today. The way out to Opicina you should go the university route. Other ways you don’t find as a foreigner or they are too steep. If you reach the obelisque in Opicina, search the streets through the town. I failed that and had to ride on a busied and ugly road around there.

In the Grotta Gigante you get in season guidance every hour. The Grotta Gigante is the greatest cave, if looking just for one cave room. It’s really worth to visit and different from Postojna or Skocjanske jame. For next I had chosen the Teran route in Italy, the third winery route in the wider Karst region. There are still very small vineyards, even smaller than at Karst winery route in Slovenia. There be back two years later in Gorjankso, I visited once more the vine-dresser Strekelj with a tradition of winery of some hundred years. It’s always refreshing to talk with him. One of his ancestors, Karl Strekelj, played a crucial role in exploring aural folk tradition and for the development of the Slovenian language. The next pass from Komen to the Vipava valley is easy to ride, no cars there. Just in time reaching the winery camping in Zalosce, another thunderstorm started, ongoing the whole night. I put my sleeping bag in the picnic cottage, which is half open. In refrigerator you’ll find the house wine, free for the guests. The restaurant, a good one, was closed, but I got some cold food. Maybe you should phone before, if you want a real dinner. I think, there is a problem with professional service at some places in Slovenia.

Do 9.7. Zalosce – Dornberk – Prvcina – Vogrsko – Jezero Vogrscek – Sempas – Ozeljan – Kromberk – Vratca (403 m) – Ravnica – Preval (336 m) – Solkan – Gorizia – Piuma – San Floriano – Hum – Kojsko – Gonjace – Mejnik (321 m) – Smartno – Dobrovo – Neblo
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Gostilnica Pr'noni): Meeresfrüchte, Roastbeef, Gemüse, Bratkart., Rotwein, Pfannkuchen m. Eis 43 € (****)
70 km | 11,1 km/h | 6:09 h | 1130 Hm

There is a local cycling way to cross from Dornberk to Sempas. Some parts turned out muddy at the beginning and I got on the route just later at the storage lake Vogrscek. A short part is gravel part, later you are again in vineyards. In Ozeljan there is another winery camping. I decided to climb up once more the Karst breaking off in Kromberk (castle with art gallery) and so came back to the pass with the view on the Soca bridges at Solkan. If you want to ride the Soca north: There is a new cycling way from Solkan to Plave, so possible to ride without cars on the other bank than the road. A most inspirational area is the Collio wine region (Goriska Brda), most parts Slovenian, some Italian. Your eyes are enlightened with the golden-green colours of the smoothed hills on all sides. You cross a lot of small villages, most of them on the top of the hills, with great panorama. The hills are easy to climb, for most of the time. The most important villages in Slovenia are Smartno and Dobrovo. Smartno is very quiet and small, with fine restaurant; Dobrovo presents a big castle on the hill (with restaurant and gallery). Even you can follow a poetry path remembering to Alojz Gradnik, but even other poets. I had gone down for Neblo, even there I found a very good restaurant, many Italians coming to that place.

Fr 10.7. Neblo – Helevnik – Golo Brdo – Ponte Iudrio – Prepotischis – Castelmonte (618 m) – Cividale del Friuli – Ponte San Quirino – Pulfero – Stupizza – Robic (250 m) – Staro Selo – Borjana – Podbela – Napoleonov most – Breginj
Ü: C wild/privat 0 €
AE: Selbstversorgung + Bier 4 €
78 km | 10,6 km/h | 7:10 h | 1735 Hm

It’s another remote route to Golo Brdo, one hard climb including. It’s a mixed landscape with winery and wood, sometimes panorama to the plane in the west. Be down, you can follow a gravel road along the border river Iudrio/Idrija (Slovenian bank). At the end of this way, you have to cross the river and go back for short. There is steep road to Prepotischis. There is a sign-post for a cycling route to Castelmonte, but you shouldn’t follow that way. Above Prepotischis you reach a gravel road, which is not possible to ride. You have to push your bike, but even this is not possible really, because always too steep. Be better, search the better road north of this way. Contrary there is an easy ride down to Cividale. This nice town is worth to visit and you get some specialities like San Daniele ham. It’s easy to ride on the Natisone valley, bathing possibilities you get more in the higher parts. Of course, the road is nearly flat; it’s the easiest way crossing from Italy to Slovenia or vice versa. On Slovenian side you find the Napoleon Bridge close to Podbela, close to it a camping with pizza restaurant. At the Nadiza the Slovenians like to go bathing even more than the Italians at the Natisone. I failed to stop in Podbela and there are more steep climbs to Breginj, so time runs away. In Bregenj is a castle, but just with a bar, where you get a beer – nothing more. So situation developed someway funny. I stayed overnight private by a Slovenian inhabitant. Of course, in the evening we had a prominent drinking session.

Sa 11.7. Breginj – Ponte Vittorio Emanuel – Platischis – Sella San Antonio Na Privale (790 m) – Zore (766 m) – Zuffine (1003 m) – Subit – Attimis – Passo di Monte Croce (267 m) – Nimis – Torlano – Val Carnappo – Monteaperta – Villanova (690 m) – Tarcento – Artegna – Gemona
Ü: C Gemona 0 € (k. P.)
AE (R Frank & Jo'): Risotto m. Pilzen & Spargel, Brancini, Bratkart., gegr. Tomaten, Pannacotta, Weißwein ? € (***)
84 km | 11,6 km/h | 7:09 h | 1570 Hm

Until Attimis down in the plane, I followed local roads, which were very small, sometimes critical. You pass a lot of wood areas, and it’s always going up and down with steep climbs. I got very tasty goat cheese and yoghurt at the Acienda Agricola Zore. In Nimis there are winery hills for some exclusive wines, and you can see it in the noble villas around there, especially later in Tarcento with the Villa Moretti. But my way through winery hills I took on my last day. I preferred to go again into the shadowed valleys. The Val Carnappo is even better than Natisone valley. It’s more idyllic, smaller and you’ll find better bathing places. Going to the end of the valley, there is steep climb to Monteaperta. Through a wood it’s now easy to for Villanova. If you are better in time, you can visit another cave there. I got down, crossing the route of my last day, and finished with a fine fish dinner in Gemona.

Music: The composer and jazz pianist Roberto Magris is a prototype of identity of Trieste region, itself representing the idea of Alpe Adria at its best. He lives on both sides – in Trieste (not Italy really) and Slovenia, with private and musical roots in the different traditions of the Alpe Adria region between East and West (even during critical Socialist era). Quite modern, he is a musical cosmopolitan, touring all over the world and working on his own label in the USA. Full of harmonic innovations, Magris creates a transcultural musical world of own character, not missing the jazz tradition as an enforcing music all over the time and as an universal musical language. He marks himself as „an alien in a bebop planet“: Roberto Magris/Big Band Ritmo Sinfonica Città di Verona/Marco Pasetto: „African Mood” (7:01 min.)

Photo gallery chapter VI (187 photos):



to be continued

CHAPTER VII
Saurian language isles, devil mountains and a special kind of beer:
The remote mountain areas of Carnia (Alpi Carniche)

So 12.7. Gemona – Colle del Leone (260 m) – Venzone – Bordano – Sella Interneppo da Bordano (303 m) – Camping Lago di Cavazzo – Verzegnis/Lago di Verzegnis – Sella Chianzutan (955 m) – Val di Preone – Sella Chiampon (789 m) – Preone – Mediis – Ampezzo – Albergo di Pura
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Albergo di Pura): Gnocchi m. Kräutern, Polenta mit Gams, Strudel, Rotwein, Cafe 27,80 € (*)
75 km | 10,2 km/h | 7:16 h | 1565 Hm

For the first time I crossed the Ciclovia Alpe Adria Radweg in Italy. The first idea to that cycling way was from Friulian tourist board, not from Austrian one. So the former railway track is build new in opposite to Austrian side, where it is placed on old existing cycling ways. Beside that, some parts in Italy or not still ready and others like this one to Venzone is someway overemphasized. For tourist working this doesn’t matter, because the new cycling way is some new attraction and guesthouses are in profit of this, as you can see i. e. in Venzone, Pontebba, Resciutta or elsewhere. Venzone like other towns in the era are restructured in old style after an earthquake 40 years ago. Venzone is maybe the most charming town of the region with impressing mountains behind and the ruins of the old town wall before.

In Bordano and Interneppo (just a low pass between) you can see houses with painted pictures on the wall. Some seem to tell a whole story. If you look closer, on every painting are butterflies. That has to do first with many butterflies at the Monte Simeone, and second with the butterfly house in Bordano, possible to visit (II didn’t). In a curve of the climb you’ll find another painting with Italian racing cyclist stars. It’s a tribute to cycling sport in Italy and to the founder of a cycling museum in Portobuffôlè (south of Pordenone). More from that I presented in the Bilderrätsel 875, even some more photos of butterfly houses there. Even the Lago di Cavazzo seems to be painted in blue – it’s the greatest lake in Friuli, maybe better known under Lago dei Tre Comuni. There is another blue lake, but this one a storage lake – the Lago di Verzegnis, two climbs later, and not direct at the road. A most exciting route is the Val di Preone (so called both sides of the Sella Chiampon) with a very small road inside in stony walls. I failed my aim in Sàuris and so stopped at the deviation to the Passo del Pura. There is a guesthouse with restaurant, but maybe it’s better to stay in Carnia capital Ampezzo.

Mo 13.7. Albergo di Pura – Passo del Pura (1428 m) – Lac di Sàuris – Sàuris di Sotto – Sàuris di Sopra – Sella di Rioda (1800 m) – Forcella Levardet (1542 m) – Campolongo – Sappada – Cima Sappada/Bladensattel (1299 m) – Forni Avoltri – Rigolato – Comeglians
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Albergo Alle Alpi): Tagliatelle m. Pilzen, Frico, Polenta, Kuchen, Rotwein, Cafe 25 € (*)
84 km | 10,3 km/h | 8:09 h | 1930 Hm

The Passo del Pura is another hard climb, but you are free of strong traffic, because the transit to Sàuris villages goes through another valley with tunnels. The Sàuris villages are special places for an old Bavarian dialect, different from Dolomite German, also influenced by the Bavarian heritage. There are some other places for this dialect in Sappada/Bladensattel and Timau south of the Plöckenpass. But in Sàuris (Zahre) there is this dialect “Zimbric” most present, if not to say, it’s best marketed. Architecture seems similar to Walser people, another German speaking group in different parts of the Alps (most prominent south of the Monte Rosa in the upper Valsesia). Beside this, Sàuris is famous for the ham, not far from quality of San Daniele, and they have a ham feast two weekends in summer. I failed this feast, because just arrived on Monday, the feast continued the next weekend. And maybe most curious, Sàuris has its own Zahre beer, with some different types of smell, one of them with a smoky smell. The beer is some new product, but still could rise to cult status today. It’s quite expensive and marketed in attractive bottles with a red devil as mascot.

The Sella di Rioda is an exciting pass with stony fragments like sculptures, feeling somewhere in middle east moutains. Going down the Forcella Levardet is critically for a randonneur. It’s again very stony, hard gravel road in the higher parts, than changing the surface for many times. In the lower part there is a series of attractive, symmetric slopes. Riding to Sappada is an easier road, but some cars more, of course. It’ more like Dolomite region. The upper valley is surrounded by fascinating mountains and remembers to Dachstein route at Ramsau in Austria. Even there are some blind valleys. I had no time any more to discover, but they are still attractive and the local tourist managers call it the “Himalaya region” of the Alps.

Di 14.7. Comeglians – Tualis – Monte Cróstis (1934 m) – Ravascletto/Sella Valcalda (958 m) – Povolaro – Clavais – Liariis – Sella di Monte Zoncolan (1740 m) – Rifugio Moro – Sùtrio
Ü: H/Osteria Da Alvise 40 € mFr
AE (dito): Ravioli m. Auberginen/Tomaten, Hähnchenfilet, Bratkart., Salat, Eis, Cafe 32,30 € (***)
68 km | 8,7 km/h | 7:53 h | 2730 Hm

Both climbs to Monte Cróstis and Monte Zoncolan are some of the hardest in the Alps, and you should be in good mood to do that on one day. If to compare, landscape of the Monte Cróstis is much more attractive with its green mountain peaks in higher parts. Even you can ride the unpaved panoramic road to Ravascletto, which is quite easy in respect to the steep asphalt road before. If looking for the easier route, turn round my slope. The Monte Zoncolan on the west is even one category harder to climb. With full package it’s close to death. To shorten the way via Clavais is maybe not easier than via Ovaro. The “Valle del Bicicletta” starts in Liariis with the last fountain at the base. Every 500 m, sometimes longer distance, you’ll find a plate with a photo of a historic hero of the Giro d’Italia, with biographical data about him. The lower plates are for the elder heroes, the higher ones are for the younger ones. For going down in the east you can choose two possibilities. I didn’t check the alternative, because it should be steep as well not in good condition. The main road down from the upper cable station is quite opposite to the west with smooth asphalt and comfortable curves – more like an autobahn, just inside wood. Wonderful room in the Hotel in Sùtrio, recommended.

Mi 15.7. Sùtrio – Piano d'Arta – Arta Terme – Cedarchis – Trelli – Paularo – Forcella di Lius (1010m?/1034m?/1070m?) – Paluzza – Timau – Plöckenpass/Passo di Monte Croce Carnico (1360 m) – Kötschach-Mauthen
Ü: C Alpencamp 18 €
AE (dito): Ofenkartoffel, Salat, Schweinemdaillons, Gemüse, Pommes, Bier, Cafe 23,80 € (**)
71 km | 11,1 km/h | 6:25 h | 1675 Hm

In Sùtrio there are some oversized furniture or a shoe. These are parts of a course with some stories like a legend. If going for the Canale d’Incaroio (also Val di Chiarsò), the most scenery road is half part over the valley on the west side, but up and down. For faster riding be better at the road of the bottom of the valley, but more traffic there. At Salino you’ll find direct at the road a wonderful waterfall. Paularo is a typical mountain village, whose people have left their homeland for earning money north in Austria or south in Venetia region during many centuries. A symbol for that is a sculpture with a bike outside the village. Because I’ll come back two days letter, I tell that there is camping south, not direct at the main road, and just a few restaurants, not of good quality. Nonetheless, it’s a charming place.

Even the Forcella di Lius is a difficult climb; the saddle is lower than the road before and later. Between Paluzza and Timau there is an easy part. Next Plöckenpass is exciting with its curves and half galleries. The south side is better than the north side. There you should be carefully; it’s a little bit dangerous with some holes. There some other important memories towards World War I, a museum in Timau and in Kötschach, a peace walk around the pass itself, and a cemetery of soldiers at the north side (middle). The camping in Kötschach-Mauthen is a little too commercial, but it’s okay for one night.

Do 16.7. Kötschach-Mauthen – Dellach – via R3 (Gailtal cycling way) – Stranig – Tröpolach – Nassfeldpass/Passo di Pramollo (1530 m) – Pontebba – Studena Bassa – Passo di Cason di Lanza/Lanzenpass (1552 m) – Paularo
W: bis ca. 30 °C, schwül, anfangs heiter, danach mehr bewölkt
Ü: C Paularo 0 € (k. P.)
AE (Ristorante): Salat, Spaghetti Bolognese, Eis, Rotwein, Cafe 19,60 € (-)
89 km | 10,9 km/h | 8:12 h | 2145 Hm

For easy riding and nice landscape you can use the Gailtal cycling way. Some parts are exclusive for bikes, other parts small roads. Going for Nassfeldpass, is again steep, but less than south side. In this case, north side is better, because of the commercialized pass, especially in winter. The south side is very stone and the road smaller and some walls round broken. Without riding through Pontebba, you find easy the way to the Lanzenpass. Well, this pass isn’t easy, anyway – even maybe more difficult from the east. But this pass is exciting with different parts of meadows, wood and canyon like route in the east. You should take more time than me, because you can take walk in the canyon, which you don’t see really from roadside. But this walk takes another 1-2 hours.

Music: The Trio Altrioh from Friuli dedicates its interest to Italian folk roots as well to old Friulian songs. They give them modernized sounds by experimenting even with electronic instruments. For this session they come together with the group Aniada a Noar from the Steiermark, which carries the same way of their musical traditions. A funny meeting of Carantanian regions and their musical traditions: Aniada a Noar/Altrioh „Bocca di Rosa (Fabrizio de André)“ (6:21 min.)

Photo gallery chapter VII (195 photos):



to be continued

CHAPTER VIII
The Alpe-Adria-Cycling-Autobahn connected by sideway channels:
Friulian Final Tarvisiano – Udine

Fr 17.7. Paularo – Tolmezzo – Moggio Udinese – Val Àupa – Sella di Cereschiátis (1066 m) – Studena Alta – Pontebba – via CAAR – Ugovizza – via CAAR – Sella di Camporosso (816 m) – Valbruna – Val Saisera – Malga Saisera – Valbruna – Ugovizza – via CAAR – ~Pontebba
Ü: C wild 0 €
AE (Ranzo, Valbruna): Tagliatelle m. Garnelen, Hirschgulasch m. Polenta, Zucchini, Pannacotta, Rotwein 29,50 € (***)
111 km | 13,5 km/h | 8:08 h | 1425 Hm

Now going down, I chose the bottom road in the Val di Chiarsò. In Tolmezzo you’ll find some delicious cakes. Some years ago I stayed there overnight in a hotel. I remember, the town was someway expensive, because it’s not really mountain area any more. Next way is not official CAAR, but you can ride this gravel road from bridge to Carnia to Moggio Udinese on the north bank of the Fella. If need asphalt, you must go for the state road, because CAAR this part to Resciutta is yet not completed (maybe next year). The Val d’Àupa is again very stony, little traffic, on the east more meadows with panoramic views. I checked the CAAR between Pontebba and Camporosso, where every bike (and passenger) is counted, marked with a big gate of wood. Of course, the whole route is easy to ride, without traffic. Some villages are not well connected with the way like Malborghetto. I looked for another panoramic view in the Val Saisera, not a hard climb at all, but still dark, when I reached the place. There are a lot of walkers, because exisiting several parking places in the valley. Instead of that the scenery is great. With a MTB it’s maybe possible to cross the mountain to the Val Dogna (next day), but with a randonneur this isn’t recommended.

Sa 18.7. Pontebba – Dogna – Sella di Sompdogna (1392 m) – Dogna – Chiusaforte – Resiutta – Val Resia – Sella Carnizza (1092 m)
Ü: C wild (Baita Botton d'Oro) 0 €
AE (dito): Gnocchi m. Käse, Salat, Hirschgulasch m. Polenta, Rotwein, Cafe 23 € (-)
80 km | 11,2 km/h | 7:07 h | 1850 Hm

For Val Dogna you must leave the CAAR and go to village Dogna. The nearly closed valley opens after a short tunnel. The road is another military road, and it’s steep, too. The mountain scenery is one of the best of the tour – it’s really great. Even I found a good bathing room open air with some waterfalls in a curve. Back in the Fella valley, there is a problem with the CAAR, that there are just a few accesses. I don’t know, whether they make it better next time. So I always had to ride on the road, but still no problem, because there is an autobahn, too – traffic is divided. Even the whole traffic in the valley isn’t prominent at all. The Val Resia in the lower part is easy to ride. It’s possible to find many places for bathing and it’s still idyllic with sum silver glimmering bushes. Maybe you should go for more in the upper valley. The Carnizza pass road starts sideway and it’s again very steep. I missed another walk to a waterfall, because of the late time. At the pass you’ll find two possibilities to eat something, but no accommodation for the night. The owner of the hut allowed me to camp on his ground (himself sleeping somewhere down in a village).

So 19.7. Sella Carnizza – Uccea – Passo di Tanamea (851 m) [24] – Vedronza – Zomeais – Tarcento – Sedilis – Nimis – Zompitta – Ribis – Udine [22:45 h || per DB-Beamer || Green Devil Mo 20.7. 10:10 h]
AE (R Odeon): Spaghetti m. Muscheln/Garnelen, Rinderfilet m. Steinpilzen, Ciocoletta Vesuvio, Cafe 41,70 € (****)
72 km | 15,0 km/h | 4:35 h | 520 Hm

The Tanamea pass is still simple. On the west you’ll find some lightening mountain scenery. I found some small river place for bathing in Zomeais; maybe it was the hottest day of the journey. Again I put a road through the Colli Orientali, the winery region, this way the north part, famous for the Ramandolo (an aperitif or desert wine). Wine tasting in Friuli is yet worse than in Slovenia. Everything is commercialized and on Sunday it’s nearly impossible. Finally I was cycling through the plane to Udine. There you feel good with some nice impressions with sunflowers, old mills and the church towers of villages, you’ll see always between the high corn fields. The canalization of the fields is forth going in the town Udine, where it’s working like climatisation. So feel very comfortable in the town, which is very clean and no way loud. Instead there are a lot of bistros to drink something, I just found a few restaurants. But well, finally I got my last dinner with fine dishes, which was also part of my “exploring voyage” of old and new Carantania – like once Paolo Santonino, who discovered Carantania in the late middle age by order of his bishop of Caorle, not avoiding good tasting.

Music: Trumpet player Enrico Rava, coming from Trieste, is one of the best styling sound maker in the tradition of Chet Baker and Miles Davis. He enables wonderful touching moods with his horn. In the following session accompanied with the same sensitivity by Stefano Bollani, p, Giovanni Tommaso, b, and Roberto Gatto, dr – something like a smooth touch on your skin in the summer wind: Enrico Rava „Profuma Di Donna” (5:04 min.)

Photo gallery chapter VIII (112 photos):





P.S.08/15 Afterburner (lost planetary footprints)


I HAVE PUT MY NET OUTSIDE IN THE WIND
…

Sun and salt
corroded the planks

The mould swallowed
and the algas coloured to green

…
ON THE BANNER INFINITY
Engraved in golden lettern
with lucid and dark signals –

the one and only answer

the one and only being

Alois Hergouth (dt. in: Platzer /Wieser „Alpen Adria“, S. 201 f., translated by myself)






Essensis Carantaniäs

What is fiction, what is truth,
– the man, is he wise and prudent?
The science will divide globals to fragments,
that helps us to understand.
The poetry makes secret thoughts important,
that is beloved for our dreams.
The history impresses footprints deep,
that is the shameful memorial of war letters.
The future is build on ruins high and risky,
if the alliance of peace isn´t broken down some day.
Be aware, short living on earth could be golden,
so far we enjoy the taste of bread and wine.
Without history, without legends – that way just remote galaxies die away,
that tells to mankind, just in small letters – the alien.

studi-RAL-verde
from tangential poetry cycle of Uranus
(sorry, that I can’t translate my own text with lyrical impact, just in the matter of sense)


* * * * *


"If we dig precious things from the land, we will invite disaster. Near the day of Purification, there will be cobwebs spun back and forth in the sky. A container of ashes might one day be thrown from the sky, which could burn the land and boil the oceans."

Old Hopi wisdom or prophecy, published in the film „Koyaanisqatsi” by Godfrey Reggio, music by Philip Glass
“Koyaanisqatsi” - Finale (5:27 min.)
Everybody has followed this exploring paper of old and modern Carantania region should stay five minutes with the film and music to rest in silence and harmony. I think we have to make a lot of thoughts about the future of the universe, and maybe just on earth.

Thanks to all Carantanian people, who supported my research alien studi-RAL-verde on his voyage on earth
Commander speichen-08/15-kracher



E N D :schmunzel:

I'm very sorry, I lost the link somewhere in the universe. Now is back: Ein grüner Alien im Königreich Karantanien

Matthias,

You are incredible. First writing this impressive report in the German part of the Forum and now translating it into English. The Spanish part is waiting